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This Weekend

For the first time, 16 Hokkaido towns bring their Ainu culture to one place: Sapporo's Aka-puraza plaza and the underground walkway fill with traditional dance, live tonkori music, live painting and free ohaw soup this Saturday and Sunday. Elsewhere the season keeps turning: Hakodate switches on its maple lights Friday, and Lake Onuma lights up with Halloween fireworks.

Photo of the Week

As daylight retreats, autumn reveals its final statement. I captured the forest here in that brief window when golden hour has passed but darkness hasn’t yet taken over, creating a palette of muted warmth where fall colors glow softly in the diminishing light. This is the moment of transition: not quite evening, no longer afternoon, a liminal space where the forest prepares for night while still declaring its autumn presence.

今週の一言 · WORD OF THE WEEK

イランカラㇷ゚テ

Irankarapte (ee-rahn-kah-rahp-teh)

"Hello" in Ainu, and the name of this weekend's festival. It is usually explained as "I softly touch your heart," a greeting that asks permission before it reaches the other person. Sixteen Hokkaido towns are using it as an invitation to come and meet their culture.

SAPPORO

Featured

Autumn Irankarapte Festival

Sat Oct 17, 11:00–19:00 and Sun Oct 18, 10:00–17:00 - Held at the Aka-puraza (Sapporo Kita 3-jo Plaza) and the Ekimae-dori Underground Walkway (Chi-ka-ho) — Hokkaido's first festival where towns from across the island present their local Ainu culture side by side. On the Aka-puraza stage: Ainu traditional dance with a participatory dance workshop, live tonkori, live painting by Ainu artists, a culture talk show, free tastings of ohaw, the traditional Ainu soup, and six kitchen cars. In the walkway: booths from 16 municipalities with specialty goods, a braided-strap workshop, a kids' corner with Ainu-pattern coloring and pin-badge making, a photo spot with traditional costume, and a craft display. Hosted by Hokkaido with the Hokkaido Ainu Association and the Ainu Culture Foundation.

CALLING ALL CAT LOVERS!

Through Oct 25 - Mitsuaki Iwago's "World Cat Walk: Under the European Sky" · Sapporo Factory Gallery (Sanjokan 3F) — Photographs by the NHK "Cat Walk" photographer of cats living among Europe's old streets. Open daily, weekdays 12:00–16:00, weekends and holidays 11:00–17:00. ¥1,500 adults, ¥800 junior high and high school, elementary and under free.

Through Oct 25, closed Mon Oct 19 - 100th Anniversary Dō-ten (Hokkaido Art Exhibition) · Sapporo Citizens Gallery, ticketed — The centennial edition of Hokkaido's biggest annual art show. Doors stay open until 19:30 on Gallery Night, Fri Oct 16.

Through Tue Oct 20, 9:30–15:30 - Autumn Leaves Gondola, final days · Sapporo Kokusai Ski Resort, Jozankei — A gondola ride to the 1,100m summit over autumn color. Food stalls run on weekends only. Gondola ¥1,500 junior high and up, ¥800 elementary, preschool free.

Sat Oct 17, 13:00–16:00 - Free Professional Consultation for Foreign Residents · Sapporo International Communication Plaza (SICPF), Kita 1 Nishi 3, MN Bldg. 3F — Lawyers, administrative scriveners and tax accountants answer questions on visas, legal matters and taxes, with English and Chinese interpretation. Application required, and applications open one month ahead, so check for openings.

Sat Oct 17, 10:00–13:00 - Nakajima Park Flea Market · Nakajima Park Jiyu Hiroba, cancelled in rain.

BEYOND SAPPORO

Featured

15th Onuma Autumn Leaves Halloween Night

Sat Oct 17 – Sun Oct 18 - 15th Onuma Autumn Leaves Halloween Night · Onuma Park Plaza, Nanae (near Hakodate) — Halloween fireworks launch at 17:30 both nights, about 5,100 shells in all, over Lake Onuma. A costume contest on Sunday (sign-up 10:00, parade 12:00, results 13:45), free apple stuffing (Sat 11:00 and Sun 14:00), rice stuffing on Saturday at 13:00 (¥200), a regional food market from Nanae, Mori and Shikabe, and YOSAKOI dance. Some walking paths around the lake close during the day for fireworks safety, so check the park's notice before you go.

HAKODATE

Opens Fri Oct 16 (through Nov 8), lights on 16:00–21:00 nightly, free - Hakodate MOMI-G Festa · Kōsetsuen Garden (Misarashi Park) — The roughly 100m row of maples in Hokkaido's only nationally designated cultural-property garden is lit every night, with new colored lights this year. Color is still building here: peak is expected in late October to early November. Calligraphy exhibits, craft, kimono-fitting and matcha experiences are planned during the run.

SHIRAOI

Sat Oct 17, 11:30 and 14:00 (about 30 minutes each) - "Anyone Can Do Ainu Language Class" · National Ainu Museum, 1F Exchange Room, Upopoy — Pronounce, move and learn basic Ainu words with a worksheet to take home. Free with Upopoy admission, first come first served, 15 seats per session, no photography.

ASAHIKAWA

Sat Oct 17, 10:00–17:00 and Sun Oct 18, 10:00–16:00 - Asahikawa Fermentation & Brewing Marché 2026 · Sanbankan Honten, 3F special venue — Asahikawa's sake, beer, soy sauce, miso, koji, vinegar and cheese makers under one roof, with food booths from NAKANIWA cafe, Chitchi no Daidokoro and Harunire Cafe. Free parking. Hosted by the City of Asahikawa and the Asahikawa Fermentation & Brewing Association.

TOMAKOMAI

Sun Oct 18 - 13th Tomakomai Fishing Port Hokki (Surf Clam) Festival · Tomakomai West Port fishing zone, free — Grilled hokki, hokki curry, seafood sold direct from the fishing port, and a clam-digging experience

AKAN | KUSHIRO

Through Oct 31, free - AKAN AINU ARTWEEK 2026 · Lake Akan Onsen & Ainu Kotan — Ainu and contemporary artists show work across the hot-spring town. Theme: "Pirka Kar Kar — on the act of making something beautiful." Works on the Bokke Promenade can't be viewed after 17:00.

Through Nov 3: KAMUY LUMINA, Lake Akan — An immersive night walk through the forest, themed around Ainu mythology.

AUTUMN COLOR WATCH

(forecast peaks; 2026 color is running a little late)

Asahiyama Park, Asahikawa, around Oct 16 · Takino Suzuran Hills National Park and Toyohira Gorge Dam, Sapporo, around Oct 18 · Moiwayama and Lake Shikotsu around Oct 23 · Odori Park around Oct 27. Jozankei posts photo updates through the season.

WEEKEND PICK

Asahikawa's fermentation marché: sake, beer, soy sauce and cheese in one building

If you're traveling for one thing this weekend, make it Asahikawa's second Fermentation & Brewing Marché. The city sits at the foot of the Daisetsuzan range, and its brewers and fermenters have been working there since the pioneer era. Last year's debut brought Takasago Shuzo, Daisetsu Local Beer and Nihon Shoyu Kogyo, Asahikawa's oldest soy sauce maker and the northernmost in Japan. Expect sake, craft beer, miso, koji, vinegar and cheese you can taste and buy from the makers, plus amazake and koji juice if you're not drinking. It's indoors, so rain doesn't matter, and Asahikawa is roughly 90 minutes from Sapporo by limited express.

See you out there. · 今週末も楽しんで。

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